Mont Blanc/Monte Bianco

Highest mountain in France and Italy. 4810 m.s.l.

Index

Bergen 2012

Content

  1. Preparation
  2. To the mountain
  3. On the mountain
  4. Trivia/Reference

Preparation

This summer we had been asked by some friends if we would accompany them to stay in a big apartment in the middle of the city of Cannes in France. This was a very welcome invitation as we had determined to take all our summer holidays at our cabin at Skaanevik and not travel abroad. The moment this was settled I started to think about climbing Mont Blanc.

I was not sure that I was able to do this as I have no training in climbing with ropes either in summer or winter environments, and I knew very little about how to reach the summit of Mount Blanc. So off to the great library; The Internet. There I soon found that of the several routes to the top there was one route that I could possibly manage, and that was the route known as the Gouter Route.

I read many descriptions of the route and several trip reports by people that had made the trip before. I spoke with my friend who had joined me for an expedition to Mt. Damavand in Iran, if he would like to come along, but this mountain did not trigger his adventurous spirit so he declined the offer. I then determined that I would go alone. I also figured out that I would go without a guide and trust my own capabilities. The only factor that I had to be aware of was the weather of course.

I soon discovered that I needed some new equipment for tackling this mountain. The items I had to get was :

Luckily the Norwegian Kroner is strong agains the US Dollar, so I was able to buy most of the equipment from US stores over the internet at half the price that stores in Norway demanded.

I got most of the equipment early in 2012, and spent several trips to the mountains near my home in winter conditions in order to try it out. I had never tried crampons before and it was a novel experience. You really could scale some terrifying steep slopes with them under your boots. Also pitching the tent and sleeping out in the cold was done on several occasions.

I was a bit unsure of this trip the whole time and instead of keeping it a secret, I told it to all my friends what I was planning. This to put more pressure on myself to prepare harder for the trip and to raise the probability of pulling it off.

As far as I could determine there was only one really dangerous part on the Gouter route, and that was when crossing the "Grand Couloir" from the base camp at Tete Rousse to do the 600 m climb to the Gouter Refuge. Here you have to cross a ravine that is about 40 m across. The path is not a problem but falling rocks are. When the sun melts the ice high in this ravine, rocks come pummeling down at tremendous speeds, killing people nearly every year. My mind was set to do this crossing so early in the morning as possible, before the sun had a chance to cause problems.

I now had a plan etched out for climbing the mountain and it looked like this :

Of course the final result became something completely different, but if you are not capable of adapting and improvising I guess the rate of failure would increase rapidly.

To the mountain

I started from Cannes on Monday 22. July at about 15:00 in a rented car. My goal for the day was to reach the town of St. Gervais where the Tramway du Mont Blanc starts from. My GPS/Trip Advisor sent me on the highway from France via Italy and finally through a tunnel under the Alps back into France and to St Gervais. I arrived there at about 21:00 in the evening. There was a big parking lot near the railway station that was free of charge so there was no problem depositing the car for the time I would be on the mountain.

The ticket office for TMB could inform me that it opened at 06:45 and that the first departure would be 07:30. I was determined to take the earliest possible departure in order to get to the Grand Couloir as early in the day as possible, as I would minimize the risk for falling rocks. So I by 23:00 I was asleep in the car, having set the alarm for 06:00 the following morning.

At 05:00 I awoke and could not sleep anymore. I got up and made sure that all the equipment was packed into my rucksack. So at 06:00 I was standing outside the ticket boot having had breakfast on the the remains of a pizza I managed to get from a pizza automat last evening. At 06:30 three other guys came strolling along as well, carrying their gear with them, including ropes and harnesses. Since I was going on my own, there were no need for ropes for me, but seeing all the equipment some of the climbers brought along sure added to the excitement inside me.

At 06:40 the ladies in the ticket office opened and I got my roundtrip ticket. When I inspected the information boards I saw that the upper station on TMB, Nid d'Aigle was closed. The station below, Mont-Lachat (2115 msl) would be the final destination today. Ahhhhh ... another 250 m added to the climb of today. I was not happy about that.

The train arrived and we poured onboard. At 07:30 we were on our way. It was a very nice and steep ride showing us the mountains in all their splendour as we ascended the track. Nearly one hour later, at 08:25, we arrived at Mont-Lachat and we left the train. We were to take a route called "Rognes" to get to Tete Rousse and this went to the left of the railway tracks that led further up to Nid d'Aigle.

On the mountain

I took my time to make the final adjustments to my equipment, and let the majority of the other climbers go ahead of me. I live by the sea level so my acclimitazion for high altitude were zero. The most prudent way to go about this was to go slowly up the mountain. So 15 minutes later I was on my way. The route was not a problem although it was a bit narrow and exposed at places. At one time we had to ascend an iron ladder bolted to the rock face. I set a very moderate pace and could enjoy legs that did not tire of the climb. Even as I restrained myself speedwise, I managed to pass several of the other climbers.

When we approached Tete Rousse there was a guide standing in the track asking every one where they were going. I said that my goal for the day was the Gouter Refugee and he asked if I had booked a stay there. I replied truthfully no and indicated that I had brought a tent and planned to sleep on the glacier just above the Gouter Refugee. Then I got my second surprise for the day : He told me that it was illegal to camp on the glacier, and that I would have to camp on the grounds just above Tete Rousse. I knew that it was illegal to set up tent above Gouter Refugee, but I had understood that it was a "sleeping" rule and it was not enforced, but having a "guard" telling you otherwise, I felt I had nothing else to do than to revise my plan.

I went up to the site where the tents were allowed and chose a spot as far away from the others as possible. There the snow was rotten and wet so I choose a site on rocks instead.

I sat down and contemplated the fact that the clock now was 12:45 and I had used 4 hours on the 1000 metres from Mont-Lachat to Tete Rousse. I had felt the height in my legs the final 300 metres and the climb up to Gouter Refuge could wait to the next day. Also the sun had started to melt the snow above the Grand Coluoir, and as I sat and watched, I could see several large rocks come tumbling down, flying at tremendous speed over the track were we had to cross. At one instance a person on the track started running when the rock came and fell and tumbled down into the scree for several meters befor he managed to crawl into safety. It was pretty scary just to observe and the desicion to not try that climb today fell easy.

So I set up my tent, pumped air into the sleeping mat and rolled out the sleeping bag. The rest of the day I sat around enjoying the views and worrying about the weather and how was I to proceed. Going to the top from this base camp would mean an 1600 m ascent, where I would probably have to start at 01:00 in order to make room for the additional 600 m. Then I would have to climb from Tete Rousse to Gouter Refugee at night with my headlamp as the only source of light. That did not seem like a very good plan. The wind and clouds became more and more determined to visit and suddenly it started to rain. I had to collect the gear into the rucksack and stow inside the tent and myself as well. Soon we had lightning and thunder and the whole situation weighted down on me.

I had to admit that this was the low point of the trip. My plan was in ruins, the flying rocks I had witnessed in the Grand Couloir were hugely intimidating, and how to proceed with a summit push from the position of Tete Rousse ... In my mind negative thoughts were popping up ... perhaps you should turn around and go down ... maybe Mont Blanc is not for you ...

Well, well ... at least I was going nowhere this evening, so why not sleep on it and see what tomorrow brings.

After a night of not the best sleep I have had, the weather had improved again. This was to be a pattern that the weather was always best in the morning. I had now figured out a new course of action and that would be to pack into my rucksack all I needed for a summit push and ascend to Gouter Refuge. If it would be impossible to stay there (I would be satisfied with a chair or sitting on the floor) I would have to descend to base camp again for a new desicion. If I could stay over I would do that and start the summit push on day three as planned. The weather forecast had specified day three as the day with optimal conditions. Low wind and no clouds. The previous days would be more windy and have clouds/fog on the summit.

After a breakfast of nuts, raisins and chocolate swigged down with water that trickled from the small glacier at base camp I set out at about 08:10. Now I had put on my climbing helmet to protect myself from possible falling rocks. It soon became so steep that the trekking poles had to be lashed to the sack as they did not help at all. I had to use my hands to scramble upwards for most of the climb. Heart pounding I reached the crossing of the Grand Colouir and hurried across. This was so early in the morning that the sun had not yet had the opportunity to melt the snow and ice above and the silence was a good sign. No running water or falling rocks. Once over I felt very relieved and started the scramble to the top. In the most difficult areas wires had been implemented so that there were good places to hold on to. It was possible to go to the left of the actual ridge and I tried that because there were nearly no one going there, but found that this was not as easy as it looked like. Absoluteley every rock were loose and it was difficult to get secure footing/handhold so after 30 metres I went back to the ridge although this meant that I had to occasionally wait and make room for people descending.

I used 2 hours and 20 minutes scrambling to the top and reaching the Gouter Refuge. Then I had passed several teams that was climbing with ropes. I was pretty amazed at the sight. I could understand going in ropes when you are on a glacier with crevasses and one of the members of the team could fall into one of these. Then the other would be able to drag this person out. But scrambling on stones on a severely steep slope looked like a sheer folly to me as the rope was almost never secured in a bolt or a wire. I imagined one falling, dragging the rest down and causing a very dangerous situation. I was very satisified with climbing without a rope in these conditions. The camera was in my rucksack the whole climb as it was impossible to carry it in my slingstrap without knocking it against the rocks while scrambling.

Inside the Gouter Refuge it was possible to buy refreshments and food. Even beer and wine. So I bought and guzzeled two Colas and nursed a big bottle of water and ordered an omelette. It turned out that it would be first at 14:00 that the "reception" would open so I would not be able to know if I could stay the night before that. I waited patiently sitting on a chair beside the reception. Now I realized a huge mistake. I had left my smartphone in the tent at base camp. On this phone I have a library of books so I can read everywhere I go. Now I had to stare into the air and spend the time worrying about my options instead of "forgetting" myself by reading a book.

Anyway, at 14:15 the reception opened an a huge queue formed immediately. When it was my turn I humbly offered my situation as a non-booker but wondered if I could have a place to stay in the common room, sitting on a chair or on the floor. The French hospitality and service level was of course present at 3800 msl as well. The receptionist heard me half way through and just indicated with her hands that I should step aside, and then calling out for people that had reservations, indicating with her body language and lack of verbal communication the essence of French greetings by service personnel : "What the hell are You doing here? What do You want? You have already ruined my day!"

Under the circumstances I had only the option to wait patiently beside the queue, holding my temper and trying for my "lost dog" look. One hour later the people with reservation (that was present at time anyway) had all been processed and it was my turn. Now there was suddenly no problem of saying yes, you can stay in the common room for the night. I still have problems understanding why this was impossible to do BEFORE the people that had reserverd place had been processed as they could not influence the available places in the common room. I choose not to inquire about this philosophical conundrum, but smiled politely, paid the fee and retreated to my chair.

Now, from 18:00 to 20:00 we would have to leave the refuge as the common room would serve as dining room for the people that had reserved a stay for the night. Also at 01:50 the following day we would have to leave the common room as the breakfast would be served at 02:00.

So, because I had forgotten my phone with the books I had a lot of time on my hands to contemplate the future. Now a great calm descended on me. The course of action were determined, the weather forcast for the next 24 hours were favourably indeed (I had gotten SMS with updates from my wife back in Cannes), and after doing the climb from base camp to Gouter Refuge without beeing tired and no sign of altitude sickness at all, I now felt pretty confident that the summit push would be completed with success.

I engaged in conversation with some of the groups that were waiting there as well, and they all expressed surprise when they heard that I was going alone, and even more when they heard that it was my first ascent of Mont Blanc. When they heard that I was alone they automatically assumed that this was something I did on a regular basis.

When the second dinner session was completed it was a bit chaotic as it was a "free for all" to find a place for the night. Many people had brought sleeping mats and light sleeping bags, but many (myself included) had not bothered with this at all. If it would be cold I had my down jacket, but as it tuned out the temperature in the cabin was more than adequate for me to sleep in my wool garments only. Did I say sleep? I did not sleep for one second this night. In the common room (12 x 6 meters?) there were about 40 - 50 people and a cacophony of snoring, talking, farting, fiddeling with backpacks and what have you. This combined made it impossible to sleep. I sure longed for the quiet solitude of my tent!

At 01:50 the lights went on and the ones not having brekafast had to leave. I fetched my sack, put on my light wind-proof jacket, boots and headlamp and made my way out. Just outside the refuge I sat down on a small bench and put on my crampons, adjusted my trekking poles while eating some chocolate and drinking a can of Cola. So, about 02:30 I was ready and started up the path to the snow and glacier. During the ascent that would for the most part be done during the dark of the night, I had also put my camera into the rucksack. Pictures would be taken on the descent.

It was all dark and I could see the headlamps of about 20 - 30 people in front of me winding up the slopes. The track to follow was for the most part very well defined as a 30 - 40 cm broad track where it was very easy to ascend using crampons. The snow was frozen making the going easy. I soon found a comfortable rythm and plodded on.

Then I saw something that made me angry. Some small distance above the Gouter Refuge there was a site with at least 10 pitched tents and available room for more. Not all the climbers had followed the instructions from the guard at Tete Rousse. How fantastic it would have been to set up camp here and slept like a log instead of trying to sleep in the hell that was Gouter Refuge living room. Well well ... there was nothing to do about that now.

I started out with only my inner mittens on my hands. I felt a bit of a breeze and some slight cold to my fingers but decided that it would be OK as I would generate heat while climbing. Climbing at night with only a cone of light in front of you sure makes for a hypnotic effect. You get into a rythm and you can go on and on.

I had the rough lay of the land ahead mapped out in my mind and I knew when I reached the Gouter Dome, a big bowl where I had to descend some 50 metres in order to cross. Then it was a steep slope again up to the Vallot Refuge, a small refuge that is used only in emergencies. Now I was at 4360 m, about half way to the top. I was still freezing on my fingers so I had to stop here to get the outer mittens as well. As the slope got steeper and significantly narrower I noticed that the other climbers switched from trekking poles to the ice axe. I decided to do the same. I also checked the batteries of my GPS and saw that they needed to be changed so that I could have a charge all the way to the top. Off with the mittens and fumbling away with the GPS and batteries. When I was finished with this I had really cold fingers and the rest of my body was cold as well. My teeth were chattering when I started up walking again. By now it was a faint streak of light in the east.

As the ridge became narrower and steeper and the light stronger the experience of climbing became more and more intense. This was the part that I had been unsure of how I would cope, but I never felt unsecure or afraid. The crampons and the ice axe gave me the neccecary traction to never feel insecure.

When I had about 200 metres left to the summit I started to feel the fatigue in my legs and the thin air got to me. I was not the only one. Every place where there were some level ground and room for passage there would stand a group of people resting. I passed a lot of people on the last 200 metres although I had to take many breaks myself. I used the trick of counting steps, counting 50 steps between each rest. When I saw the final ridge I got my second wind and went all the way in one final go.

The final ridge to the top was narrow, less than a metre across with very steep slopes on both sides. If you fell to the right you would end up in Italy and if you fell to the left you would end up in France. On either occasion it would be a most definite "buona notte" or "bonne nuit" I'm afraid.

By now the sun had been up for about 15 minutes and I could send my joyous SMS to my wife that I was on the top at 06:45. I had used 4 hours and 15 minutes to the top from the Gouter Refuge.

It was not a cloud in sight, nearly no wind and a tremendous view. I snapped a couple of pictures but did not wait around for more than 10 minutes before I headed down again. I had visions of going all the way down to St Gervais this day and that meant that I had to cross the Grand Couloir. I was anxious to do this before the sun could work too much havoc on the ice and snow there.

Going down I took a lot of pictures that shows the fantastic weather conditions. Soon the sun made it very warm and I had to remove my wind proof jacket, wearing only a thin wool uppergarment. I really wished that I could take off my wool undergarment as well but would not stop to do all the logistics demanded for removing this. I was sweating rivers going downhill! I passed many people going uphill. They were clearly struggling, moving like turtles in syrup with grim determination on their faces. I could see vomit by the side of the trail where some of them had deposited their breakfast. They were clearly hugely uncomfortable with far to much clothes on, going uphill after the sun had risen and pouring heat on us.

I made good speed downhill and the view were breathtaking. For the most part during the ascent I had not been able to make out anything of my surroundings because of the dark. Now I could enjoy the splendor of it all in bright sunlight.

I was back at the Gouter Refuge at about 09:20. So I had used 2 hours and 25 minutes to descend. Here I removed my crampons and leggings and then I took the opportunity to remove my wool undergarments in order to not beeing boiled. The sun was coming in fast so I just threw my camera into my rucksack again, donned my climbing helmet and started down the steep descent to Tete Rousse. I do not have the exact time of how long it took to descend but I am pretty sure that I used at least the same amount of time as going up. Careful is the correct mode of operation in this part of the mountain. The crossing of the Grand Couloir was a bit more nerve racking this time as the trickling of both water and small stones could be heard. Fortunately I made it over without incidents.

By now I had developed a slight headache and I knew that this was because lack of water. I filled up a 1.5 litres bottle with cold water that trickled out from the glacier and went down to my tent. Here I had a 0.5 litre of blue Powerade stowed away. Now I put down my rucksack, stripped off all my clothes except my briefs. Then I sat down on some warm rocks beside my tent looking back up to the Gouter Refuge, and drinking water and Powerade. Now, this was the high point of the trip. Sitting in the sun, drinking ice cold water, looking back up to the dangerous part of the climb and savouring the knowledge of that I had been to the top, the trip had been a success. From now on it was nothing but plain trekking, no dangerous parts at all.

At about 14:00 I had taken down the tent and packed all my belongings into the rucksack and was ready for the final descent. The last train from Mont-Lachat was leaving at 18:45 so I knew I had plenty of time to reach this departure. I loaded up and started the trek down from Tete Rousse in a leisurly pace.

As I came down to Mont-Lachat I could see the train leaving for one of its rounds 20 minutes before I came all the way down. This did not bother me at all as I knew it was not the last train to leave. At the station there was a small kiosk and I got myself a beer and a bottle of water. Now, seldom does a beer taste better than after such an ordeal.

From the mountain

The final surprise came as we were almost down to St Gervais with the TMB. Suddenly a huge clank from the front of the train and the train shuddered to a halt with high grinding noises. In a little while some of the personell came and explained what had happened ... in french! But I understood enough to know that this train would not move again any time soon. We left the train and were advised to go down to the next station which luckily was only 300 metres away. A bus was summoned and we rode this bus down to the final stop at St Gervais.

Here I put my equipment into the car, and prepared myself for driving home. The temperature was about 35 degrees celcius, so the heat was stifling. Now I wanted to drive back to Cannes going as straight as possible from St. Grevais and avoiding the highways, so I let the GPS work out an alternative route that took me along Grenoble and Albertville.

It became dark after I had driven for 2 hours and I wanted to enjoy the scenery while driving so I put into a parkingplace and slept in the car. At that time I had not had any sleep for nearly 36 hours so I probably fainted the minute I put my head on the headrest. I slept soundly for 9 hours and by the time I woke up the sun was rising again and I could carry on to Cannes, enjoying every view as I drove along.

Trivia/Reference

Photos marked with Nils Ottar Molde is taken with a Canon EOS-1 Ds Mark III camera, using a Canon EF 24-105mm L IS USM lens.

Here is how the GPS readings I collected during the trip is rendered in Google Earth.

And below is the kml format of the route. Using the GPSBabel software, you could probably convert it to fit into your own GPS device.

This file can also be applied directly into Google Earth so you can view the route from many different angles and altitudes.

Download kml file for Mont Blanc first leg. (Mont-Lachat to Tete Rousse)

Download kml file for Mont Blanc second leg. (Tete Rousse to Gouter Refuge)

Download kml file for Mont Blanc third leg. (Gouter Refuge to Mont Blanc summit)

Download kml file for Mont Blanc complete trip. (Mont-Lachat to Mont Blanc summit)